On the other hand, one can also argue that the more a brand is worn, the higher its awareness will be. Indeed thanks to fakes, a brand focused on limited editions could become more popular even if its goal was not to become mainstream. Therefore the effects on the brand could be positive with the free publicity that reinforces the hype around the brand.

-Paying extra for the brand...-

When we think about counterfeit products, we also think about quality. Obviously, fake garments are often made with cheaper material in order to save money on the price tag. Designers justify the price of their articles by the quality of the materials they use and the skilled labour needed during the manufacturing process.

Nevertheless, these justifications can be questioned in the light of recent news. The Balenciaga Triple S used to be crafted in Italy and will now be manufactured in China. A decision that will cut the costs - by spending less time ‍‍‍on each pair - at the expense of the overall quality of the shoe. Yet the price will remain the same.

Why does counterfeit clothing exist? The principal aim is naturally for look-alike manufacturers to sell trendy clothes at a lower price, because even if almost everyone finds a Gucci T-shirt sleek, not everyone can spend 500$ in a tee. In this way we can hardly argue that replicas harm businesses as people wearing fakes would have never worn the originals because their budget is completely different.

-An exclusivity issue-

However it affects the exclusive nature of these garments. Indeed designer brands are able to maintain their high prices because all their models are limited editions that can’t be find anywhere, except in a few special locations. But in doing so, some countries which are not considered as worthy enough such as South Korea are in a way excluded from this distribution network and the counterfeit garments are the only solution for Koreans to have access to the products they want. In this case money is not the issue but rather the unavailibility of the desired ite‍‍‍m. R‍‍‍eproductions are here to satisfy their needs.

How to address the problem of counterfeits then?  The first key is about being unique, unimitable some might even say. Because if everyone buys the same Gildan T-shirt and prints it with their logo, then of course there is a market for copies since no one will be able to tell the difference between genuine and fake products. Fake manufacturers might even be able to make profit even if they sell it for less.

-...or for the quality-

That’s why brands should focus their efforts into a design that is hard to copy. And this comes through specific designs that require valuable materials and quality craftmanship. After all, ‍‍if brands want to stay successful, they should have prices that justify the work done on their clothes. In this way the hype around the brand will be sustainable and counterfeits won't be able to compete.

This strategy might not kill counterfeits but it will definitely reduc‍‍‍e their credibility.

written by Antoine Cathelain

Counterfeit Clothing: how Brands can Withstand the T‍‍‍hreat?

      $461 billions. That's the value of the global market in counterfeit goods in 2017. And a growing fraction of this amount is made up of streetwear and designer brands - as illustrated in the recent Highsnobiety documentary below. The analysis of this booming counter-culture which deeply affects brand development strategy could help brands learn some lessons.

Watch the new episode of Counterfeit Culture filmed in Russia